Add a sculptural element to your bedroom by making this comfortable bench for the foot of your bed.
Five 1800 x 44 x 22mm pine lengths (legs and seat) cut to:
- two lengths to: six 382mm lengths
- three lengths to: three 1500mm lengths
One 1800mm x 94mm x 22mm pine (shaped cross section) cut to:
- three 400mm lengths
One 1800 x 350 x 22mm laminated pine (shelf) cut to 1500 x 312mm
Sixteen 1800 x 22mm x 22mm meranti (slats) cut to 1500mm lengths
- drill and combination countersink bit
- 10mm wood drill bit or spade bit
- measuring tape
- G-clamp (optional)
- combination square or tri-square
- hacksaw or handsaw
- wood glue
- wood filler
- 60mm chipboard screws
- paint roller and paint
- 10mm dowels
- One 1000 x 10mm Saligna dowel (to plug the holes)
- We used 44 x 22m and 94 x 22mm pine planks to make the bench frame.
- We shaped the 94 x 22mm sections to create the curved profiles for the top part of the framework.
- We used 44 x 22mm pine and 22 x 22mm meranti planks for the slats.
- The pine components were painted white and the meranti was left untreated.
1 Use the pencil, measuring tape and trisquare to mark 44mm-wide bands at both ends of the three 400 x 94 x 22mm sections. Then use the drill bit to drill two holes at each end, as shown.
TIP Use the clamp to hold all three pieces together, so that you can mark and drill all three (on the edges) at the same time.
2 Mark corresponding holes at the ends of all six legs (382 x 44 x 22mm lengths).
TIP You can also use special doweling plugs to help mark corresponding holes. These plugs fit into the first holes and have sharp points that mark the corresponding timber.
3 First place a small amount of glue into the holes before using the hammer to tap dowels into each of the holes drilled in step one.
4 After applying more glue to the opposite ends of the dowels, place the leg sections onto the dowels and tap these firmly home. Repeat until you have made all three U-shaped frames.
strong>5 Use the square to check that the joints are at 90º angles before the glue has time to dry.
6 Once the glue has dried, mark out the shape of the cross bar section, as shown. Draw a line (A) 44mm from the ends, then mark the new width (B) (of the 94mm sections) as 65mm. Mark the inner curve (C) to a point 25mm along the inner length. Extend that point upwards and use that as the starting point for the outer curve, as indicated.
7 Use the jigsaw to cut these profiles. Then use this as a template to mark and then cut the other two. Now mark a tapered line to the inside of each leg. Measure 11mm from the edges and 56mm from the ends. Cut these angles using the jigsaw.
8 Fix the 1500 x 312mm laminated pine shelf between the three frames 128mm up from the bottom. Position the two end frames 80mm from the ends and the third one in the middle.
Measure 128mm from the bottoms and mark 22mm from that. Fix the shelf between these points using the chipboard screws. Remember to drill countersunk pilot holes beforehand.
9 Fix the three 1500 x 44mm pine planks to the top of the frames in the same manner. Fix one along the centre and then space the other two roughly 12mm to either side.
10 Fill all holes and blemishes with wood filler, leave to dry and then sand these points, as well as the entire frame, in preparation for paint.
11 Use the foam roller to paint the frame, first with a primer then with two coats of water-based enamel in the colour of your choice.
12 Once the paint has dried, fix the meranti slats to the frame, as shown. You will need to space the planks at the necessary (possibly irregular) intervals along the curve in order to achieve a ‘smooth’ curve. Remember to drill the countersunk holes in the meranti slats a little deeper – using either a 10mm combination countersink drill bit or 10mm spade bit or wood drill bit – to plug these holes with dowels.
13 Plug the holes using the wooden dowel. Add a dab of glue before inserting the end of the dowel. Then use a saw to cut the dowel roughly 2mm from the surface of the slats. Repeat the process until you have plugged all the holes. Then use a sander to sand the ends of the dowels flush with the slats.